The Holiday Tree Lights Up Once Again After the Start of the Conflict

For two years during the Gaza war, every festive public event marking the holiday season were called off within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where Christians believe the birth of Jesus occurred.

However, following a recent truce, the holy city determined that now the festivities would make a comeback, as symbolised by the lighting of its customary, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"It's been a bad two years of silence; no Christmas, no employment, no work," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to zero."

He acknowledges that the idea to restart festivities faced some debate, as suffering continues within Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate while others contend it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the correct action to do because Christmas should never be stopped or cancelled. This represents the light of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Celebration Returns

Locals – both Christians and Muslims – pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of foreign tourists.

Vibrant lights now decorate city streets and there are signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.

"We are delighted to see the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," comments local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where everything began, so this is where we can send the message to the world about what Christmas truly should be about. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a positive message for the whole world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

Nearby towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to light Christmas trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have remained largely empty for the past two years – have an influx of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think every person should visit at least once in their life," she says.

"I wish a lot of people will soon come back because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is that there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in line for hours at least."

Currently, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem experience scant trade, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which date back to the Fourth Century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the Gaza war, it was often crammed with visitors.

"Bethlehem is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no life," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle East, America, Latin America and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."

The Persistent Economic Impact

In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Following the lethal Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements for work.

Meanwhile, public servants have been paid just a portion of their wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.

Israel says they are retaining the funds due to the fact that the Authority provides financial payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage violence against Israelis. The PA – facing global pressure to make reforms – says it has lately modified its social welfare system.

An Austere Christmas Season

The bleak economic outlook means that for numerous Palestinian Christians, even though there are now public festivities as well as religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.

On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons are waiting to buy sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.

"We are getting ready for Christmas after one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says one restaurant owner, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery which has seen its income plummet. He says lately numerous families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.

"Christians will try to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festival or a show or similar, they lack the funds to expend for this celebration."

Hopes for Peace and Prosperity

In the cave-like grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a resident follows a small Indian tour group, stooping down by a silver star which marks the spot where tradition states that Jesus was born and lighting a light close by.

Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, Bethlehem residents state they are praying for peace – and hoping for tourists to come back to the place which is thought to be Christmas began.

Jason Hammond
Jason Hammond

A passionate winemaker with over 15 years of experience in crafting fine Italian wines and sharing the art of viticulture.